Too long, it hits the lock's back cover when it's turned. This is precision stuff, and likely the most critical step. like using a peep sight.ģ) Cutting the dial spindle to the correct length (they all come a long, universal length, and must be cut to fit the door thickness of the safe you're mounting it on). I usually look through the hole in the ring and into the hole in the lock, and line the two holes up visually. You don't just screw it on in "any old position". But the holes which the screws pass through on the ring are slightly elongated, so there's some "play", for exact centering over the hole in the lock body where the dial spindle enters it. The dial ring gets screwed to the outer door using the same holes as the keypad studs. You must center the ring around the dial spindle hole in the lock body, so that the dial doesn't bind when turned. First & fifth are simple mechanics, rest are not so simple, and require know-how.ġ) Screw new lock body to the door with the lock bolt pointing in the same direction as the one on the lock you removed was pointing.Ģ) Install dial ring on outer door. There's six steps below that take some knowledge (or at least some coaching ), after the old lock is removed. Either way, the mounting footprint (mounting screw pattern) will be indentical to that used by a S&G 6730 or LaGard 3300 mechanical lock (all 4 use same screw holes). This is a swap that as an experienced pro takes me about 30 minutes (going from mechanical to electronic is easier).Ī Cannon more than likely has a LaGard electronic lock, but it could have a Sargent & Greenleaf. I'll explain the swap in some detail, so you can decide if you want to attempt it, or hire a pro. Thanks for reaching out and providing help.I appreciate it!
I can take some photos and hopefully there might be some input on converting the electronic lock to a manual combo. Thanks for the help.My safe is a Cannon Safe.
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